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Getting around Goa: GoaMiles taxis, scooters, buses and the river ferries

Goa rewards the slow road: a scooter under the palms, a ferry to an island, a taxi home after dinner. How each works, and which to choose for which day.

By The House of Nivak8 min readUpdated Facts checked
Passengers watching the sunset from a ferry crossing the Mandovi river in Goa
Photo: Fredericknoronha, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
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In short

  • Uber and Ola don't operate in Goa. Book taxis on GoaMiles, Goa's own taxi app, or at the airport taxi counters.
  • Mopa (GOX) is the closer airport for North Goa. Its authorised taxi counter charges fixed rates by destination, and Kadamba buses leave from right outside the terminal for Mapusa, Calangute and Candolim, Panjim and other towns.
  • A scooter is the local way to explore. Carry your licence, always wear a helmet and never ride after drinks; village roads are narrow and dark at night.
  • Kadamba and private buses link the towns at low fares, with Mapusa the hub for the north. Government ferries carry foot passengers and two-wheelers free, to Divar, Chorão and Tiracol among others.
  • By train, Thivim (THVM) on the Konkan Railway is the station for North Goa, and Madgaon, in Margao, the main station for the south.

The easiest ways to get around Goa are a scooter, if you're comfortable on one, and taxis booked on GoaMiles, Goa's own taxi app, because Uber and Ola don't operate here. Kadamba buses link the towns at low fares, and free government ferries still cross the rivers to island villages.

Goa looks small on a map, but its roads wind through villages and around rivers, so a day works best in one area: the north coast, Panjim and Old Goa, or the south. Here is how each way of travelling works, from the moment you land.

Getting to Goa: airports, trains, buses and the road

By airMopa (GOX), in the north, is the closer airport for North Goa. Dabolim (GOI) is further south, so allow extra time if you land there.
By trainThivim (THVM), on the Konkan Railway, is the station for the north; take a taxi on from there. Madgaon, in Margao, is the main station for the south.
By busLong-distance buses stop at Mapusa, North Goa's market town. Take a taxi or auto-rickshaw on from there.
By roadFrom Mumbai or Pune, follow NH66 into North Goa. From Bengaluru or Belagavi, drive to Mapusa and on from there.

The Konkan Railway's stations in Goa run from Pernem and Thivim in the north, through Karmali and Madgaon, to Canacona and Loliem in the south.

From Mopa airport to North Goa

Mopa is the airport for the north, and there are three good ways out of it. Whichever you choose, have a map pin for where you're staying ready to share, as drivers may not know smaller villages by name.

Leaving Mopa, three ways

  1. Taxi counterThe airport's authorised taxi counter charges fixed rates by destination, across Goa. The simplest choice after a long flight.
  2. GoaMilesBook in the app once you land. The airport lists GoaMiles among its taxi services, as an initiative of the Goa Tourism Development Corporation. Check the fare in the app before you confirm.
  3. Kadamba busGoa's government buses stop right outside the terminal, with routes to Mapusa, Calangute and Candolim, Panjim, Old Goa, Ponda, Margao and Colva. Buy tickets at the KTCL counter by the stop; fares depend on where you're going.

Is Uber available in Goa? Taxis and GoaMiles

No. Uber and Ola don't operate in Goa. The app to download before you land is GoaMiles, Goa's own taxi app, which Mopa airport describes as an initiative of the Goa Tourism Development Corporation (GTDC).

It works much like the apps you know. You book a ride, track it live and pay in the app by card, wallet or UPI, choosing an air-conditioned hatchback or sedan, or an SUV for more room. There's a panic button, and you can share your ride details with someone. The app advertises rides at government rates; check the fare in the app before you confirm.

DownloadGoaMiles for Android or iPhone, before you fly.
Nights outBook a ride there and back, and never ride a scooter home after drinks.
Auto-rickshawsHandy for short hops from town stands such as Mapusa. Agree the fare before you set off.

Renting a scooter or a car

A scooter is the local way to explore, and the north in particular is best taken slowly, by scooter, with plenty of stops. Carry your licence, always wear a helmet, and never ride after drinks.

A self-drive car is easy to rent too, and better for long days to the south or into the hills. Either way, go gently after dark: village roads are narrow and dark at night, and cattle and dogs wander onto them.

  • Carry your driving licence whenever you ride or drive.
  • Wear a helmet on every ride, however short.
  • Photograph the scooter or car before you take it, scratches and all, and keep the rental's number in your phone.
  • Learn your way home in daylight, before you need it after dark.
  • Take a taxi on nights out. Never ride after drinks.
  • In the monsoon, roads are wet and forest roads can close in heavy rain, so check before a day in the hills.

Buses: Kadamba and the private lines

Kadamba, Goa's government bus service, and private buses link the towns at low fares. Mapusa, the market town, is the hub for the north, and long-distance buses stop there too.

Buses suit town-to-town trips better than beach-hopping. From Mopa they are also the low-cost way into the north: the airport lists Kadamba routes to Mapusa, Calangute and Candolim, and Panjim.

The hubMapusa, for the north and its villages, Siolim among them.
TicketsFares depend on where you're going. At Mopa, buy at the KTCL counter by the stop.
Best forTown to town by day, with light luggage.

The river ferries

Goa's government ferries are one of its quiet pleasures. Foot passengers and two-wheelers travel free, as the government has exempted them from ferry tolls, and cars pay a small toll that varies by route.

These are the crossings most visitors use, with the hours the River Navigation Department lists. Ferries run through the day, but timings and frequency vary by route, so allow for a wait.

Government ferries, as listed by the River Navigation Department
CrossingWhere it takes youFerriesHours listed
Ribandar to ChorãoChorão island and the Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary46 AM to 2 AM
Pomburpa to ChorãoChorão island16 AM to 12:10 AM
Old Goa to PiedadeDivar island and its hilltop church36 AM to 2:15 AM
St. Pedro to DivarDivar island16:30 AM to 12:45 AM
Panaji to BetimAcross the Mandovi from Panjim26 AM to 10 PM
Querim (Kerim) to TiracolTiracol Fort, at Goa's northern tip16 AM to 10:15 PM
Mangroves along the water in the Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary on Chorão island
Mangroves on Chorão, a free ferry ride from RibandarPhoto: Gannu03, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Carry water and a little cash for the islands, as Divar has few shops. On Chorão, the Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary is open 6 AM to 6 PM, and its boat trips follow the tide. Our guides to Old Goa, the islands and Ponda and hidden Goa make a day of them.

On foot, and which way for which trip

Goa's villages and old quarters are made for walking in the cooler hours, early morning and late afternoon. Panjim's Fontainhas is at its best at first light, from about 6:30 to 8:30 AM, and Siolim is lovely on foot along the river at dusk.

Which way for which trip
TripBest wayGood to know
Mopa airport to the northTaxi counter, GoaMiles or a Kadamba busHave a map pin ready for the driver
Beaches of the north coastScooterHelmet on; the north is best taken slowly
Dinner and a night outGoaMiles, both waysNever ride after drinks
Old Goa, Divar and ChorãoCar or taxi, then a free ferryCarry water; the islands have few shops
DudhsagarJeep safari from CollemLate October to May; jeeps are capped daily, so start early
A day in the southCar or taxiA long day from the north: start early, or stay a night
Town to townKadamba or private busMapusa is the hub for the north

Questions people ask

  • No. Uber and Ola don't operate in Goa. Book taxis on GoaMiles, Goa's own taxi app, or use the taxi counters at the airports. Download the app before you land.

  • By taxi from the airport's authorised counter, which charges fixed rates by destination, by GoaMiles, or by Kadamba bus from right outside the terminal. The buses run to Mapusa, Calangute and Candolim, Panjim and other towns, and tickets are sold at the KTCL counter by the stop.

  • Goa's own app-based taxi service, which Mopa airport describes as an initiative of the Goa Tourism Development Corporation. You book and track rides in the app, choose a hatchback, sedan or SUV, and pay by card, wallet or UPI. Check the fare in the app before you confirm.

  • Yes, and it's the local way to get around. Carry your licence, always wear a helmet and never ride after drinks. Village roads are narrow and dark at night, with cattle and dogs about, so take it slowly after dark.

  • For foot passengers and two-wheelers, yes: the government has exempted them from ferry tolls. Cars pay a small toll that varies by route. The island crossings from Ribandar to Chorão and from Old Goa to Divar are listed from 6 AM to about 2 AM.

  • Thivim (THVM), on the Konkan Railway, is the station for the north; take a taxi on from there. Madgaon, in Margao, is the main station for the south.

Sources and checks

Opening days, prices and seasonal rules change. We check them before every update; please confirm anything time-sensitive before you go.

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